michelin csillag Archives - UpSideDownTheWorld Blog

A következő Michelin csillag Budapesten – Textúra étterem

április 12, 2019admin

A Borkonyhások biztosra mentek! Csináltak egy szép és jó éttermet a korábbi sikeres koncepció mentén, hogy bezsebeljék a következő csillagjukat.

A híres nevezetes galamb

Az én szívemhez a legrövidebb út a galambon át vezet. Ha bárhol ezt látom az étlapon biztosan azt rendelem. Imádom a markáns, erőteljes ízvilágát és ezzel együtt könnyedségét. Magyarországon szinte sehol nem készítik, mert egyrészt a magyar közönség nem kedveli annyira, másrészt nehéz megfelelő alapanyagot beszerezni és a galambnál ez még a többi húsnál is lényegesebb. Olaszországban vagy Franciaországban, netán a Taubenkobelben tökéletes galambot lehet kapni, de itthon szinte soha. Így nem volt nehéz a Textúrát a szívembe zárni, mert itthon még soha nem ettem ennyire jó galambot, amit itt kaptam. Ráadásul számomra meglepő módon magyar alapanyagból készült.

A Textúrát régi éttermükkel szemben nyitotta a Sas utcában a Borkonyha csapata. Érkezésünkkor maga a tulajdonos nyitotta az ajtót és ez még akkor is szép gesztus, ha kicsit fáradtnak tűnt. A belső tér nagyon attraktív, fát és leveleket idéző barátságos, meleg, de különleges. Valahol már láttam ehhez hasonlót, de fogalmam sincs hol.

Az étlap nincs túlbonyolítva, kevés fogás, de változatos, amiből könnyű választani mindenkinek. Néhány nagyon jól elkészített hús attraktív tálalásban, magyaros és nemzetközi ízek vegyesen. Galamb, fürj, bárány, valamilyen vad, hal, de van hús nélküli fogás is. Igazából mindegyik kiváló volt. A töltött fürjet is ki kell emelnem, mert a fürj olyan étel, amit két okból sem rendelek. Általában túl száraz és szemtelenül kevés rajta a hús. Itt töltötten tálalták és kiküszöbölték mindkét negatívumot és a hozzá adott japán Edamame bab sütve meglepően jó volt.

Kacsamáj
Szarvas
Sütőtök krém leves

A borlap igazából egy borszekrény, hasonlóan a Borkonyhához. Jó a választék, de itt is a mai magyar éttermi trendet viszik, ami azt jelenti, hogy 10 ezer alatt szinte nem lehet bort kapni, de aki egy kicsit nagyobb testre vagy magasabb minőségre vágyik, 15 ezer fölött, kell költsön. Valaki végre felvilágosított, hogy ez miért van. Az 50 vendégre jutó bevételt ilyen módon szeretnék maximalizálni az éttermek. Amíg a turizmus ilyen mértékű a belvárosban, addig ez megy is a magyar vendégek nagy bánatára. Nekünk 16 ezerért kellett fehérbort rendelni és ugyanennyiért vöröset. Ez még 4 emberre is nagyon húzós borfogyasztás egy vacsorához, ami ezzel szemben teljesen elfogadható árú volt.
http://texturaetterem.hu/

Fine food turns into fine art – Madonnina del Pescatore – Senigallia

szeptember 6, 2017Tibor M. Kovacs

Few of us go often to such a restaurant like Madonnina del Pescatore. And it is not only because of the cost. Mainly because there are not so many of this quality and most of the time you have to travel for it. This one worth a trip if you are on the Adriatic coast of Italy. We visited last year at a lucky off season time when it is not busy. The town Senigallia is not so well known among foreign tourist. It is elegant Italian seaside much different than Rimini which is just a stone trow away. It is shown by the fact that there are two restaurants with two Michelin star here. We choose this one to visit it seemed fitting more to our taste.

Colors and lighting creates warm atmosfere

It is very elegant in every aspect. Interior design, table-ware, furniture are all superb. Such as the food.

Looks like an abstract painting with this unusual green

The chef Moreno Cedroni had one star for ages and 2 Michelin star for more than 10 years. For two stars you do not just have to make good food you have to make a creative and unique one. In this case you can use the term artistic. You can feel that the chef considers himself more of an artist who makes edible art than someone who gives you food to eat. His dishes look like art pieces culinary joys enclosed inside. This functional art fulfills its duty when you eat them. Just look at the speciel abstract like usage of colors in his masterpieces. Like this one here with the unusual green. I am sorry for the photo quality but it gives you back something of it. That time he used different kind of mayonnaise which is quite rear in Italian kitchen.

Risiko one of their attraction. Tastes from around the world

There was another dish where fish was swimming in green sea. We ate the 8 course menu „Vicino alla tradizione” and of course the main focus is on fish but had a beef like dish which was fish too it was amazing.
One of their attraction comes at the end of the dinner. It is the Risiko which originally a strategy war game. They using its map to show different taste of the world as petit four. Very creative and tasty too.
Mr Cedroni leads not a simple kitchen. Which has a lot of risks. Complicated kitchens can be tiring but here they keep all your senses awake during the whole time. You can enjoy yourself.

Feels good to sit at a table like this

I have to mention the wines. In most of these fine dining places they selling way too expensive wines which makes the bill even heavier. In Marche this is different. Marche wines are very well priced and you can have high quality for reasonable price. Of course here they have wide range of carefully selected local wines for good price. All together what you get here for your money is really worth it. Many two starred restaurants are way too overpriced compared to this one. See it for yourself.

The perfect beef like tuna

Octopus with mayonnaise

Lasagna with frutti di mare – It is swimming in green sea

Tartufo nero

„Simply” a coffee

Ferry tale of two brothers and a golden fish (restaurant) – Gambero rosso – Marina Di Gioiosa Jonica – Calabria

augusztus 11, 2017Tibor M. Kovacs

Once upon a time there was a two Michelin start restaurant under the name of Gambero rosso in Tuscany by the sea. The scandalous chef Fulvio Pierangelini was so bored of his guest that stopped cooking. I had a chance to eat there and meet him. Besides the food it was not my experience of a lifetime. There is an other story more ferry tale like. There is an other Gambero Rosso in Italy far far away from the other a little bit further than the end of the world. The father and the mother founded the restaurant and when his two sons grew up they went to get to know the world to learn. After learning they came back and they started to run Gambero rosso. They might have met the golden fish one day because their dream came though. They made with passion and dedication a one Michelin star restaurant at the end of the world.
Not many foreigner go to the Calabrian part of the Ionian sea. It is the sea between the toe cap and heel of the Italian boot. Although is very nice and the Puglia part is busier this side you can call empty. Not many hotels mostly Italian tourist and they using apartments. The beach in most places are covered with stone not sand. Large calm empty waters with endless sea. Relaxing but some might call it boring.

This is the beach of Hotel Miramare

Marina Di Gioiosa Jonica is not a busy touristic center. You have only two hotels.The one which is near the center does not have the top floor finished. Prices low. 120 EURO in high season for four people for a suite. You wondering how a one Michelin star restaurant makes a living here? One which is open all year long. But they do. Due to local demand even winter time they have guests. Surely to start a business like this money is not a motivation. They need to have a lot of passion for quality and gastronomy to start such a place here. Two brothers make it with passion you can feel it if you go there. One of them is the chef and the other dealing with the guest. Just as it must be in Italian gastronomy fairy tales. Gambero rosso is obligatory if you are in Calabria. It is worth coming here from around Tropea and stay for the night. They specialized on fish and they buy the ingredients from local fisherman. Its not always the easiest but they manage. They have a huge and exiting wine cellar and collection. Have a look there it is under the restaurant. Visited twice one with children and I can tell you it was fun for them too.

The bear is having fun too

Our daughter’s Teddy bear had to eat with us but the chair was too large for her so the waiter offered a big pillow to the bear.
They make their own bottarga (salted cured fish roe) which they use often. If there are not many guest you can ask them for a tasting of it on its own. Their crudo (raw plate) is an attraction with scampi.
The two brothers creating a kitchen far away from tourism from trendy places but their place itself make trends. If you around just go there and will not regret it. Even though the other Gambero rosso in Tuscany had 2 Michelin star we liked this kitchen more.
http://www.gamberorosso.net/en/

Welcome bite

This is not fish wellcome bite

Crudo (raw) plate with scampi

And the pasta

And some more with bottarga on the top

And some more bottarga

More fish

Italian favorite deep fried plate

L’Approdo – Calabria – The treasure is inside

augusztus 6, 2017Tibor M. Kovacs

Even though the sea is warmer the beaches are not crowded and prices are lower Calabria is not such a hot destination like Tuscany. It is far away and much less to good restaurants to find. But there are some good ones which you have to visit if you go there. One of them is L’Approdo in Vibo Valentina Marina. The place is not an attractive one. There is not much reason to go there but the restaurant. The outlook not promising much but this place had a Michelin star for ages and there is a reason for it. (The interior design is very gorgeous but I do not have a picture. Find it here: http://www.lapprodo.com/) We visited twice with 12 years difference. At the first visit it was the only Michelin starred restaurant in Calabria. The quality have not changed or just got better. We even found the same waiter there. What is fantastic about Italy than even a small place like Vibo Valentina can have gourmet restaurant like this. Local demand for quality is the motivation behind these restaurant not tourism. This time we had lunch with kids and everybody was satisfied. I love that even simple children food is so good in these restaurants we are rushing for the leftovers.

This is for the children Gnocci gourmet style.

Best way to eat in this restaurant if you visit Pizzo in the afternoon and have lunch here before. Pizzo is a spectacular town claiming they invented Tartufo the special ball like multi layer ice cream. Worth a visit and a taste. (Strangely you can bargain in the ice cream shops.)

L’Approdo is a place to explore some good Calabrian wines. Their wine list is very long and their cellar is impressive. Ask for looking at it. Taste a local malvasia which is very different here than in the north and Magliocco which is an indigenous grape and makes unique wine.

Very light octopus salad

And squid salad

Ravioli for the adults

Strozzapreti with shrimp

An amazingly done breaded squid, nothing you think of under this name

Dessert

Petit fours

Guido – Rimini – The best food on any Adriatic beach

augusztus 1, 2017Tibor M. Kovacs

Guido restaurant is somewhat a miracle. It is located in (Miramare di) Rimini which is one of the busiest mass tourism site of east Italy. Mostly fun for families with small children. The streets are full of plastic beach toy shops and child amusement arcades. The last thing you expect here is a top class gourmet restaurant. But actually you have one and a very special one. It is located in the sand of the beach and probably this is the best beach restaurant of the several thousand kilometer long Adriatic cost. What is more the food is dedicated to the taste of the Adriatic. You might think very brave to say „the best”. Of course there are some better restaurants in the towns of the Adriatic cost but they are not located on the beach in the sand. It is actually rear to find a restaurant like this.

What else could it be than an old family restaurant. It gets the name of the grandfather of the two grandson Gianpaolo and Gianluca running the place. One of them is the chef the other giving the service.

Very few gourmet restaurant gives you this kind of feeling of freedom especially if you’re sitting on the terrace. Your children still can play in the sand and you can enjoy perfect food. If you are in the area Guido worth going there for lunch even with kids. They are crazy about different oysters, clams, muscles. It is a must to taste the red risotto. In other parts of Italy they do not really make risotto with tomato. It is the specialty of the house and the area. The rise is cooked in the liquid coming from the tomato. Do not mix it with fregula sarda, which rice looking pasta originally from Sardinia.

You can order anything you will not regret is. They have a perfect wine list fitting the light fish based menu.

Enjoy and have fun. Book a table for tomorrow lunch.